FOOD
EXPERIENCE:
Go Native
April 2008
Restaurants are
like cultural canaries in a coal mine; they tell
us just how we’re doing where our levels
of taste and dining sophistication are concerned.
If a town is full of Applebee’s and Outbacks,
then the entire community will have a limited culinary
language. But if a place is made up of Novos and
Artisans, Montrios and Miros, you have a diverse
dialect of inspired food shared by all.
When you speak to diners and chefs around the region, the conversations are
a mix of enthusiasm and frustration. Chefs are pressured to alter menus to
suit a broader cross section of people, but most are confident enough to coax
customers toward more provocative offerings. Diners are put off by high prices
and mediocre service, but are responding to the chefs that make definitive
culinary statements. Those of us who watch the food scene closely and promote
it passionately feel a little like yentas, trying to match diners’ tastes
to chefs’ talents.
It takes courage to do something extremely specific, know your niche, and let
customers walk out the door if they want something other than what you’re
offering. Trying to be all things to all people, on the other hand, is a flawed
strategy. Sean Faries is not making this mistake.
It would have been easy for Faries to continue to live off the popularity of
his Mission Grill, the bustling downtown San Luis Obispo spot known for its
happy hour half-price appetizers, draft beers, and Sunday brunches. I was actually
surprised to walk past it one day and discover it closed. But behind those
walls and shuttered windows, a revolution was occurring—one that will,
hopefully, challenge restaurant owners, chefs, and diners to abandon the typical
and embrace the bold. Say “Hello” to Native Lounge.
Hip and sophisticated, full of stylish attitude forged from inspired décor,
Native Lounge could have been plucked from Vancouver or Chicago, and dropped
on the Central Coast, sans any big-city arrogance. Whereas Mission Grill was
dark brown wood, Native Lounge is a study in white with plaster walls and hand
laid vertical tiles, offset by the reflection of colored lights that change
from purple to turquoise. A giant glass-enclosed waterfall faces the entrance,
separating the foyer from the cool bar that is backlit in turquoise and underscored
with fuchsia mosaic tiles. Low couches, banquets, and ottomans in dark leather
are gathered around coffee table-style surfaces—there’s not a traditional
dining table in the place. Faries chose boldly and the result is modern and
inviting.
There isn’t a restaurant anywhere, though, that can make a statement
on décor alone, and Faries knew he needed a chef that could match his
inventive setting. In Charles Aghajanian, Faries has an Executive Chef with
the perfect background of imaginative food. His résumé is a review
of impressive establishments with highly-regarded chefs, exotic locales, and
formal training at New York’s Culinary Institute of America where he
graduated at the top of his class. Regardless of where he’s been, Aghajanian
has that single most essential quality that can’t be learned: a rare
and profound love of food.
The menu he’s created at Native Lounge is made up of small, shareable
plates representative of his worldly experience and influenced by his amazing
grasp of ingredients, both local and exotic. He personally shops farmer’s
markets and posits the seasonal fare with intriguing components. While his
background is French Armenian, his sensibilities are international. Baby Greens
Bouquet is served with a potato ring, caramelized persimmon, Mejoul dates,
and harissa vinaigrette. Homestyle Meat Loaf Sliders are served on flaky profiteroles
topped with rich applewood smoked bacon, aged horseradish cheddar, and spiced
up with stone ground mustard. The Armenian Touch is made to share: grilled
pita triangles with marinated feta, baba ganoush, kalamata olives, and tzatziki.
Mole Duck Empanadas prepared from duck confit are served with a super refreshing
jicama, carrot, and radish slaw.
Equally creative cocktails with fresh ingredients come from the bar: a crisp
cucumber and jalapeño martini, or the popular Raspberry Mojito made
with Bacardi Silver and fresh mint. The Wild Hibiscus Champagne Cocktail includes
a marinated hibiscus flower while the fabulously refreshing and slightly fizzy
Pomegranate Martini is concocted with Grey Goose Orange Vodka, Cointreau, pomegranate
juice, and Chandon sparkling wine.
The happy hour menu—offered weekdays until 7 p.m.—is broken down
into food and beverage choices at special price points; you can choose from
a list of items each costing from $3 - $6. The regular menu is separated into
categories of Earth (vegetable dishes including their popular White
Truffle Parmigiano Fries); Wind (for fowl, including an Ostrich Osso
Buco); Fire (Wild Boar Chop and Milanese Lamb Rack); and Water (seafood
like the seared scallops, which are served with an incredible Absinthe nage).
Leave room for the house-made ice-cream cone sampler at the end.
Food is served late—the full menu until 11 p.m. and a latenight menu
until 1:00 a.m.— another welcome offering for the region. Tuesdays through
Saturdays, the lounge becomes a club, with DJ music playing later in the evening.
The fantastic food and provocative atmosphere make for a Food Experience like
none we’ve had on the Central Coast—this is a CCM® rave.
Native Restaurant & Lounge
1023 Chorro St., San Luis Obispo
(805) 547-5544
www.nativelounge.com |
