FOOD
EXPERIENCE: Artisan
By Anne Vidor
March 2007
“The art
of dining well is no slight art, the pleasure
not
a slight pleasure.”
– Michel de Montaigne
Ahhh, the
evolution of the Central Coast. As we crave the
continued infusion of a higher caliber of goods,
services, and culture, we meanwhile cling to the
ever-so-slightly warmer and friendlier aspects
of our off-the-beaten-track existence. What better
demonstration of our unwillingness to settle for
second-rate in this first-class part of the country
than a sophisticated new restaurant full of enthusiastic
patrons indulging in a refined dining experience?
Artisan is open and thriving.
Brought to you by brothers Chris and Michael
Kobayashi, Artisan is not a fluke. As boys,
they dreamed of opening a restaurant some
day and set off on separate
paths that resulted in the perfect framework for success. Artisan is the culmination
of two kinds of talent: Chris, the cerebral and contemplative chef, the soul
of the restaurant, and Michael, the gracious and confident host, the establishment’s
personality.
Central Coast residents may know of Chris
Kobayashi’s reign as Executive
Chef at Robin’s Restaurant in Cambria, where he perfectly executed their
established, eclectic international cuisine. Expect completely different fare
from this talented young man now that he is master of his own menu. Defined
as contemporary American cuisine, Chef Koby (as he is known) has incorporated
attributes of diverse culinary concepts to create a unique seasonal menu, adjusted
twice each season to take full advantage of our abundant local fruits, vegetables,
and other ingredients. In a region saturated with wine country cuisine, this
menu is full of surprises, elevating it above the fray.
This was our experience ... First: rich White Bean Soup with Duck
Confit, topped with chopped chives and chive oil. Second: Pan Roasted
Dungeness Crab Cakes – more succulent crab than cake, as it should be – with
caper-thyme aioli and Tabasco™ vinaigrette. Third (this one
is already legend in the area): Smoked Gouda and Porter Fondue served with
garlic toast, andouille sausage, and broccolini. Fourth: perfectly
Pan Roasted Sea Bass over Maine lobster risotto, English peas and pea leaves,
drizzled with fennel seed oil and parmesan cream. Fifth: a tender
seared Dayboat Scallop, tasty mini-chunks of smoked Cajun sausage, gulf prawns,
mussels, and Manila clams pulled together with a dash of cioppino broth. Sixth: Venison
Wellington – wow – a tender filet cooked to perfection, accompanied
by wild mushrooms, baby carrots, and a ruby port reduction. Seventh: the
luscious Crème Brûlée Trio – bourbon whiskey, butterscotch,
and gianduja (chocolate/hazelnut/almond), served with warm, mini madeleines.
Each dish was perfectly paired with a selection from their extensive California
wine list.
While contemporary, minimalist décor
can be sterile, in this case it is warm.
Cool, dark wood floors and furniture offset
appealing sage and cream
walls. The intimate bar area is enhanced with a view of the impressive wine
cabinet and deep maroon walls. The open kitchen creates a friendly and inviting
atmosphere in the otherwise polished dining room. Large windows look out on
the street and let in bright sunshine by day, while, in the evening, shades
are drawn and warmth is created through candle light. Light and dark, cool
and warm, refined yet friendly; the restaurant is the manifestation of balance.
Chef Koby is reported to have graduated at the top of his California Culinary
Academy class, which was followed by a certificate in Baking and Pastry at
the Culinary Institute of America.
Next came stints at establishments in San Francisco and Napa
where he honed his ability to turn out flawless dishes from a busy kitchen.
Michael, who brings years of talent management experience in the music industry
to the front of the house, stops by every table to assure all is well.
And all is well here in our paradise made even finer by the
addition of this delightful restaurant, one that would make any region proud.
Artisan
1401 Park Street, Paso Robles
805.237.8084
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